Thursday, September 4, 2008

Japan – Land of “Derekh Eretz”

If there was a single Jewish term by which I could use to describe Japan in an all-encompassing manner it would be “Derekh Eretz.” Our sages considered “Derekh Eretz” so important that they required that it precede even the study and practice of Torah. “Derekh Eretz Kadma LeTorah,” they said. What is “Derekh Eretz?” Literally, it means “The Way of the Land.” To expand, I would say it means “They Way Things Should Be Done” or “The Way People Ought to Behave Toward One Another.” Colloquially, to have or to show “Derekh Eretz”means to treat one’s fellow man with respect. Pirkei Avot, The Ethics of the Fathers, is filled with expressions and instructions regarding the manner in which we ought to relate to one another. As I travel around, I see in different cultures the way this is sometimes expressed. In Canada, my Israeli travelers were astonished and astounded that complete strangers said “Good Morning!” to them as they walked along the sidewalk. In Japan, some of them smirked upon seeing to local citizens bowing politely to one another. Others were embarrassed when a hotel manager would bow to us as we entered his or her establishment. In one case a traveler of mine berated a waiter for putting milk in her cofee. Even though he didn’t understand her English, the waiter understood the tone of her rebuke. He was so apologetic that he got down on his knees to beg forgiveness. She too was embarrassed – maybe rightly so because she had made a big fuss over something so minor.

Understanding a local culture is the key to appreciating any country you may be visiting. Comparing anything I see to what I already know, dimishes from my new experience. That’s why I tell all my travelers to open their minds as wide as they open their eyes. For once you understand the local culture, the local customs become all the more beautiful.

Another thing our sages tell us in Pirkei Avot is: “Let the honor of your fellow be as dear to you as your own.” I would love to see that put in practice here in Israel. But in Japan, that is exactly what defines the mores of social intercourse. Your honor is dear to me, therefore when I greet you, I show you respect by bowing before you. It’s an amazing idea! That before I engage you in business, or in a conversation, I a priori show you respect. It boggles my mind, and I confess I love it. Sometimes when the conductor on the Shinkansen bullet train enters the coach and bows before he goes about checking tickets, I am sorely tempted to thank him by bowing in return. Seeing as no-one else does it on the train, I don’t do it either. Not sticking out is also looked upon fondly by the Japanese.

But when a store clerk thanks me for my business and bows, I am delighted to bow in return. When I have the opportunity to present someone a gift here in Japan, I appreciate the chance to show my respect in the traditional Japanese manner.

And this is “trickle down” good manners. Japan is noted for being almost completely free of street crime. It’s probable the safest country in which one can walk about at night. No one will accost you. Graffiti is nowhere to be seen. The ubiquitous Japanese vending machine is never broken into. Why is that? It’s quite simple. No self-respecting Japanese would dishonor him or herself by doing something like that. How would a person appear in his or her own eyes if they committed such an offense? Astounding. To know it, to understand it,and to appreciate it, is to embrace it with affection.

“Let the honor of your fellow be as dear to you as your own.” A Jewish teaching – that is practiced in Japan.

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