Namibia

[nuh-mib-ee-uh]

"ohhhh!! Namibia with an 'A'," I shouted as Courtney, Caity, Drew and I tried to name all countries in Africa (try the Africa country quiz for yourself). That was eighteen months ago during a weekend of "colleging" in Charlottesville as we joked about farfetched plans to visit the red dunes in Namibia. There is even proof on Facebook of us playing Geosense (another great geography quiz game). The caption on the photo is fittingly "Nimibia" with an "I".

A year later who could have guessed I would be so close? South Africa's Human Rights Day allowed for Omar and me to plan a long weekend to South Africa's northwest neighbor. Coincidentally it was also Namibia's Independence Day. Happy 21st birthday!!

The 18th of March, Omar and I flew into Windhoek, Namibia's capital, and stayed at the self proclaimed Elegant Guesthouse. We found the only lively place in town, the 'world famous' Joe's Beerhouse and finished the meter of beer (great place if you ever find yourself in Windhoek). In the morning we set out in our 4x4 to explore the country. Within ten minutes of leaving the city the roads turned to gravel and stayed that way the entire six hour drive to Sossusvlei (red dunes). Namibia is an enormous country and almost completely desert. It's also by far the most rural place I have ever been: no paved roads, no exits, no billboards, no towns, no farms, and, from what we witnessed, no rules. It was an amazingly relaxed place as well; we would pass fellow tourists about once an hour who pulled off to the side of the road to alleviate themselves or enjoy a beer.

Omar and our 4x4

Namibian countryside

Dirt road that goes on forever

We arrived to Sesriem, a small camping village at the edge of the dunes', in the mid-afternoon and headed to a swimming hole to cool off and wash off the dust. Saturday night, we stayed at the Sossusvlei Lodge which was nicer than two backpacking guys could justify but the all you can eat dinner made up for the extra cost. Although make sure not to mention you are American, that's double the price. The highlight was being able to try all sorts of game meats including zebra, oryx, impala, and kudu.

Sesriem Canyon swimming hole

Sunset from Sossusvlei Lodge

Zebra dinner

The national park gates to Sossusvlei open at 7:00am. The problem is that sunrise is at 6:24am. Yet, as all things in Africa, exceptions can be made (TIA). We conveniently found out that the guy at the front desk's brother happens to work for a lodge inside the park gates and can pass through freely. So, for $20 we had our guide for the day.

Julius, our new friend, met us at the lodge at 5:00am and drove us the 70km through the park to the "most photographed dune in the world," Dune 45. We hoofed it up the cold morning sand under a full moon making the first tracks on the perfectly smooth dune. The hike was excruciatingly painful, for every step up the sand would give away about 80% of the progress. Huffing and puffing we made it to the top and were in awe of the view. As the morning sun crept over the horizon it cast incredible shadows and illuminated the dunes. Low and behold, they are truly red... "not a crimson, but more of a Burnt Sienna, if you are down with the Crayola 64 pack" as I heard from another traveler.

Resting on Dune 45 and waiting for the sun

View from Dune 45 westward with full moon

Morning sun begins to cast shadows

Sunrise on Dune 45

Happy Campers

Red Dunes at Sossusvlei

Julius aka "Sundown" 
(He didn't understand when I started quoting Top Gun either but we found out later that his
 favorite movie is Snakes on a Plane and recited Samuel Jackson quotes instead)

Descending

Running down Dune 45

Edge of Dune 45 and lone tree

Dune 45

Dunes and Oryx

Walking in desert

Deadvlei

Deadvlei

After an amazing morning on the dunes we headed for the coast and were sure to fill up our tank before leaving civilization again. Another four hour drive through nothingness brought us to the Atlantic and a small German feeling beach town called Swakopmund. We explored the town, ate on the beach, got out truck stuck in the sand, and had a fun evening with at the local bar, Grunen Kranz. Omar and I mingled with the locals until a British tourist bus rolled up outside and brought the party. On Monday we headed into the dunes once again but this time on ATVs. The sand dunes rose from the beach and went on for miles and miles.

On the drive to Swakopmund

Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn on drive to Swakop (note dotted line on the ground)

Atlantic Ocean

Omar and I in the dunes on ATVs

Namibia proved to be a hidden gem. The people there were extremely friendly, the landscape unique and untouched, and, even in the arid desert, it was full of life. I recommend it to everyone if you happen to be in the area. Follow our trip in the map below:

View Namibia Trip in a larger map