swaziland: Victoria Falls

It took a bit of convincing, but we decided to head for the Zimbabwe side of Victoria Falls. As we landed we were welcomed by the laziest customs agents in the world (Swaziland is also in the running). It was a prime example of African time...but not African currency as the Zimbos only accept the greenback. Furthermore, the customs office only works with paper, both the documentation of our arrival and the exchange money (someone is minting money and I think his name in Robert Mugabe).

I was able to book a package through BushBreaks and they took care of all the details. A driver was waiting for us and we made the short trip to the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. On the journey we gazed out the window and for the first time saw the Africa of news stories, a striking contrast to South Africa. Unanimously, though, we all agreed there is something amazing about rural Africa. The simplest of activities are made difficult by the lack of first world conveniences we're all accustomed to. Everyone walks long distances, lacks permanent structures, and is constantly searching for their next meal. Yet, the optimism and smiles are undeniable.

Although we were in Zimbabwe, our group definitely did't rough it. The lodge sat up on a hill overlooking a waterhole frequented by elephants, buffalo, wildebeest, and birds. Beyond that you could see across the Zambezi River and the mist of Victoria Falls. The first evening we booked a sunset boat cruise on the Zambezi.

Pepere on the Zambezi

Mist from Vic Falls

CP and I on Zambezi River cruise

Sunset on the Zambezi

We started the second day bright and early with another all you can eat breakfast. Then we were off to the Falls and explore town. We started at the National Park and paid $30 each to enter (yep....dollars....thirty of them.... $150 for the group.... you're welcome Mugabe). There really isn't another choice, obviously, we only flew all the way around the world to see Vic Falls. As it turns out, they're spectacular. As we walked around the canyon rim the noise was deafening and the mist created a constant downpour.

Water running over the falls

Courtney and Pepere in the rain

Zimbabwean style fence keeping us from the edge

Group in the Vic Falls mist

After spending some time at the falls we walked across the bridge into Zambia and grabbed a burger at the Bungee Burger Bar. The restaurant is aptly named for we were able to watch a countless stream of idiots jump off the 200m bridge. From lunch we made the long walk back to Zimbabwe and the Victoria Falls Hotel for high tea. The walk was long both because of the distance and because Dad and Pepere had to ask every truck driver queuing at the border what they were carrying and their destination.

You are now entering Zambia

Looking back at bridge and falls from Victoria Falls Hotel

Victoria Falls Hotel

After high tea we made our last stop for the day: the market. Mom and Dad were running out of energy and gave up quickly wanted to end the constant harassment and bartering as quickly as possible. CP and I on the other hand walked away with a bowl, giraffe, elephant, and lion. My only stipulation was that I refused to deal with the guy in the Virginia Tech hat... we did business with just about everyone else.

African Craft Market

The last day in Victoria Falls we splurged on one last activity, a helicopter ride. Expensive as it was, the view was spectacular. We circled the falls a few times, then flew down the canyons, and then out across the plains where we could see buffalo, elephants, and giraffes.