swaziland: Edinburgh and St. Andrews

On my way back to South Africa I was able to stop in the UK for a couple days. I flew in the day of the Royal Wedding which is why I booked my flight straight into Manchester.

I arrived on the red-eye from New York and Brad and I immediately hit the road north to Scotland. Once out of Manchester, the norther England countryside is beautiful. Big rolling hills, small towns, sprawling sheep fields divided by miles and miles of stone walls. The long drive, with a few scenic route detours, got us to Edinburgh in the afternoon. With no real itinerary in mind, we set out for Edinburgh's Royal Mile. The Royal Mile runs through the historic heart of the city and is laid with granite setts. We poked our head in the many whiskey shops, found an antique map/book store, and debated buying a kilt at one of the numerous wool stores that just about paralyze you with plaid. The pubs were full of Scots "pissed" from the day's wedding celebrations. Many groups were even dressed up with face cutouts of the Royal couple.... truly a scene. Stumbling through the still lively streets we found our way bock to the Art House Hostel. I do not recommend. Any establishment where the proprietor offers a cash discount in return for a positive review doesn't make the cut.

Northern England stone walls

Will, Kate and Queen face cutouts

We had our first "you know you're in Scotland when" moment about ten minutes after arriving at the pub. Brad got bumped and spilled a small portion beer. The culprit turned around and started screaming in English? as Brad and I looked at each other in bewilderment. When a Scot is drunk at a pub, you're never really sure if a fight is about to break out or if he's a distant cousin. After some hand gestures we determined he he wanted to buy Brad a replacement. The moment Brad hesitatingly agreed he grabbed Brad's beer and chugged it in front of us... only then to approach the bar and buy another round.

Edinburgh is authentically medieval. We spent Saturday wandering the streets, climbing the castle and reciting Braveheart lines. Edinburgh Castle is straight out of history. It towers above the city on a large rock outcropping and contains giant walls, drawbridges, cathedral, barracks, and currently holds Scotland's crown jewels.

Edinburgh City

Edinburgh Castle from below

Streets of Edinburgh

In the early afternoon we had a quick huddle and concluded we couldn't be this close to St. Andrews and not pay a visit. At the end of a long country road the North Sea arrives abruptly along with the town of St. Andrews. The iconic links course is the first thing you see; TV images from last year's Open came to life as we saw the sprawling open terrain, deep bunkers, and the symbolic 18th with its stone bridge and green ending abruptly at the town's buildings. There is no doubt about the history or feeling of golf's origins, just look at the signs: The Royal and Ancient Golf Club at St. Andrews and The Old Course.